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2017年1月7日星期六

Gifts for Watch Lovers

The holiday season can be a lonely time for the watch nerd. Sure, we are surrounded by family and friends, but not one of them understands our hobby. In a thoughtful, yet totally misguided way, they will try to play to our interests with watch themed t-shirts, ties, or cuff links. Worse yet, our well-meaning loved ones may decide to surprise us with a watch of their choosing, and... well... Let's just say they might benefit from some guidance in this area.  Fortunately, The Time Bum is here to help.
If you are a member of the watch nerd community, I suggest you subtly suggest your gift-seeking loved ones peruse this article before they begin their quest. If you are not a watch nerd, but are seeking a gift for a watch enthusiast, then congratulations! You have come to the right place. In addition to the watches and straps already featured in earlier reviews, The Bum now brings you new and affordable gift ideas for every watch collector, up to my completely arbitrary budget of $999. If you plan on spending more than that per present, you should really be reading Watch-Anish. 
Enjoy!

The Time Bum's Holiday Gift Guide

Cheapest NATO Straps, Original NATO, $5
Nylon one-piece straps are the perfect watch accessory because they will change the look of a watch with almost zero effort. Swedish strap retailer Cheapest NATO Straps has these irresistible little numbers dirt cheap. They have a polished buckle and a single fabric keeper, in sizes 18-22mm. Don't know which one to get? Take advantage of the volume discount and $4 flat rate shipping and get a handful in different sizes and colors.
Timex Weekender, $25-45
Timex Weekender on Grants Button Stud Strap
Everyone needs a Timex in their collection. The classic American watch has new styles and a new following, but it is still the same old fashioned value, ready to "take a licking and keep on ticking." It is also a healthy candidate for strap swaps, like... 
Grants General Store, button stud strap, 2 for $35
These handmade, hand dyed, leather pass-through straps are also available individually, but at this price, why not get two? Instead of a conventional buckle, they feature an uncommon stud fastener that eliminates any tail on the strap. With a choice of three widths, three lengths, five colors, and two stud options, you are sure find a suitable combination. Get free shipping with code FREESHIP.
Crown & Buckle / Logan Zane NATO, $60
Watch nerds love straps, strap nerds love NATOs, and everybody loves quality leather, so you can't go wrong with one of these. The CB/LZ editions are made from Italian or American leather with a funky patterns and textures. Winter offerings include the dark brown Walrus pattern, or a grey/white Snow Camo that will give you the advantage of stealth in your next snowball fight. The CB/LZ collaboration straps go quickly, so act fast.

Bas & Lokes Marlon Brown and Brass Belt, $75
It is possible to delight a watch nerd with a gift that is not watch related, particularly if it comes from a merchant in the watch community. Australian leather crafters Bas & Lokes make some beautiful watch straps, as well as a wide array of other leather accessories.  The Marlon is a handmade leather belt made of premium vegetable dyed leather in a rich chocolate brown with burgundy tone and a pull-up quality, lightening where bent or wrinkled.  The buckle and rivets are brass. If your watch nerd seems confused when he opens it, just tell him it is like a watch strap, but for his pants.


Orient Aviator, $135
Orient watches have quite a following on the forums,with watches like the Bambino, Ray, and Mako (reviewed here) achieving cult status. Now you can add the Aviator to that list. This B-uhr style watch is available in four colors, measures 42mm with a 22mm strap, and is powered by an in-house 21 jewel automatic. The Aviator lists for $305 on the Orient site, but normally sells for $159 at Island Watch. Grab one on sale now for $135 and make a watch lover happy.



Seiko SKX007, $199
There are two kinds of watch nerds in this world: those who own a Seiko 007, and those who will own one shortly. This darling of the watch forums is a legitimate 200m dive watch with Seiko's solid 7s26 automatic movement, and no-nonsense good looks. It is a highly versatile, and frankly irresistible package at a very reasonable price. If you find the black dialed 007 to be insufficiently festive, then check out its blue and red sibling, the 009, pictured on the Original NATO Strap above. Both watches are available for just under $200 at Island Watch.
WotanCraft Atelier Scout camera bag, $209
WotanCraft produces some mighty macho watch straps, and also these kick-ass camera bags. If your giftee is not a photographer, then they can function as a messenger bag or small briefcase. They are constructed of waxed canvas and vegetable tanned cowhide, with a removable waterproof inner pouch for protection, perfect for any urban or field adventure. Prices range from @$200-800.


Techné Goshawk Ref. 411.05, $320
If you are looking for an aviation watch and are ready to spend more than $90 on the Merlin, then have look at the Goshawk. It has a handsome, aircraft instrument style face, sapphire crystal, and a Miyota 8217 automatic movement. Paired with one of Techné's very appealing leather straps, it is hard to beat.

GJ Cleverley for HODINKEE Limited Edition Watch Strap, $495
HODINKEE has partnered with royal cobbler, GJ Cleverley to produce 35 straps made from 227 year old Russian reindeer leather salvaged from the shipwreck of the Metta Cartharena. Honestly, you can not make this stuff up. This is a truly unique gift. For maximum irony, pair it with a Timex Weekender. On Donner! On blitzen! On my wrist!


Autodromo Prototipo Vic Elford Edition, $775
Is your watch lover also a gear head? Then consider this limited edition chronograph inspired by legendary racer Vic Elford. It features vintage style, a thoroughly modern Seiko VK63 hybrid meca-quartz movement, and a booklet signed by Vic himself.
Christopher Ward C60 Trident COSC Limited Edition $999
The C60 delivers a traditional Rolex-inspired diving watch in Christopher Ward's own unique and highly attractive style. The COSC Ltd. Ed. houses an ETA 2824 chronometer, certified for accuracy by the Control Officiel Suisse de Chronometers, and is limited to 500 pieces. While this is very cool, and conveniently tops my under-$1000 list, The Time Bum cannot help but note that is is but one of 45 variants in the C60/61 line up, including GMTs, ETA or Stelita movements, several colorways and strap options, and 38 or 42mm cases. My choice? A khaki 42mm on a Bond strap for only $605.
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2017年1月3日星期二

Mercer Brigadier Chronograph Review and Giveaway!

Back in 2014, the Mercer Watch Company released its first model, the Brigadier Automatic. I put a prototype through its paces and liked what I saw, praising its athletic build, handsome dial, and the versatility of its tastefully conservative design. Three very different models followed: the Wayfarer GMT, the Privateer, and the Voyager. Now, for 2016, Mercer has gone back to the well with a chronograph variant of the Brigadier, and sent me a press sample for evaluation.
The Chronograph shares the original Brigadier's stainless steel case, and this is a good thing. It's a nicely proportioned 42mm unit with a domed sapphire crystal and internal anti-reflective coating. Like the original, its thick brushed lugs cut a sporty, square-shouldered figure, while a broad, polished bezel dresses it up. The Chronograph has the same large, fluted, screw-down crown as the Automatic, but it looks better on this model as the rectangular pushers balance its size. Around the back, the auto's display window has been replaced with a solid case back engraved with the image of a Revolutionary War officer. This is a nod to Brigadier General Hugh Mecer, a player in the battles of Princeton and Trenton, and the watchmaker's namesake. Water resistance is 100m, making the Brigadier a true sport watch. 
The dial does not stray far from the original design either, keeping the guilloché center, applied markers, and dauphine hands.There is little text to clutter things up, only the attractive Mercer brand name a sword logo above, and the model name below. It all worked well on the first watch, and does equally so here. The chronograph features do require some accommodation so floating silver sub-dials occupy the 3 (24 hour) and 9 o'clock (small seconds) positions and the date window is at 6. A tachymetre scale chapter index encircles it all. Budget minded chronograph fans may recognize this layout as that of the Seiko VK64 MechaQuartz. A favorite among micros, it combines a quartz movement with a mechanical chronograph module, enabling 1/5 second timekeeping and satisfying snap back on reset. 
Three colors are offered: white, blue, and the slate color pictured here. There is also a white and rose gold version, and if the stretch goal is met, Mercer will release an intriguing sand color as well. The slate dial is a shade dark enough to preserve the gravitas of black but light enough so as not to obscure surface details. It also provides a subtle backdrop for the dark blue second hand. Polished elements can get lost on dark dials so I was pleased to see that the Brigadier has SuperLuminova on the hands. It is not dive watch bright, but it goes a long way in maintaining sufficient contrast in daylight, and a welcome glow at night. 
At 42mm wide and 49mm long, the Brigadier will be an easy fit for the vast majority of buyers. It certainly wears well on my 6.5" wrist, offering a sporty presence but no so much that I wouldn't wear it with a tie. The only thing that lets it down is the strap. It is black with white stitching, 22mm wide tapering to a 20mm buckle, and signed with the Mercer sword. It would be perfect but for the fact that it is patent leather and the shiny, plasticky surface is a letdown. To be fair, Mercer makes no secret of this, and the strap appears to be well made. I just have aesthetic issues with the choice of material. It is an easy fix of course, but I think it cheapens the look of an otherwise classy piece. 

Finally, a word about the packaging. Regular readers know I have no affinity for dust-catching display boxes. Mercer has opted instead for a blue leather travel case, fitted for one watch with room in the lid for either a second watch or an extra strap. I appreciate the effort to supply something useful, and that blue is mighty cool.
Strap aside, everything else about the Brigadier Chronograph displays quality and a tastefully conservative aesthetic. It carries everything I liked about Automatic and the chronograph buttons greatly improve its proportions. I would declare it a good value at its full $329 price, but why pay retail? As of this writing, you can still get one for as low as $219 through Kickstarter. That is a good price, but you know what would be even better? Free. Check out my giveaway below for a chance to win the Brigadier Chronograph of your choice. 
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